This is a short account of an exceptional trek to Annapurna Base Camp with Binod Mahat, of Hike Nepal. Wonderful because of reaching the sublime Annapurna Sanctuary after a hard slog up the Modi Khola, but exceptional because of the way our guide took great care of us and managed the expedition efficiently.
Our route took us, day by day, through Pokhara, Dhampus, Landruk, Chomrong, Dhoban, Deurali, Machapuchchhre Base Camp. Then a bit of an early morning slog through the snow to Annapurna Base Camp for a few sublime hours, from whence we descended to Himalaya for the night. On the homeward leg our nightly stops were then Chomrong again, Chuile, Ghorepani and Banthanti. The final trekking day was down the notorious 2,000 steps to Nayapul, for our pickup and drive back to Pokhara.
Our party consisted of Greg, Chris and Zöe in their early twenties, Ben and Joanne around fifty, and Angie and myself (Rob), mid-sixties. We all love hiking and the mountains, and are all quite fit. Angie and I had trekked to Gorak Shep – Everest Base Camp – in 2005 so we had a pretty good idea of what we were in for. Nonetheless I would rank this as the toughest walk we’d ever done, because of the numerous ascents and descents on the approaches to Annapurna.
There were so many scenic highlights, especially the bowl of the Annapurna Sanctuary and the walk along Deurali ridge with views of the massif and Dhaulagiri. There were also many opportunities to engage with the countryside and its people, and learn about Nepal’s history and culture, but this review is mainly about how Binod managed our trip. In the planning phase, the itinerary was worked out between us with Binod’s advice and suggestions. At no time did we follow a rigid plan, as can happen with some big name organizations, with pretty disastrous results. Instead, when one of the party got sick with a bad cold, Binod re-scheduled so that we had a rest day at Chomrong, and an easy day after that. At any time, we could have cut out part of the itinerary and headed straight for a road; fortunately this wasn’t necessary. Also, we staged our ascent to ABC with enough rest periods so no one suffered from altitude sickness, unlike many we met who had gone high too quickly.
Another key to happy trekking is good and safe food and water! The food was always abundant and delicious. Obviously there’s a huge range between the best, like the Lake view Resort in Pokhara, and the more primitive lodges you encounter. Binod and the crew supervised the kitchens and amazingly provided fresh fruit with every lunch and dinner, and often at tea stops as well. The one exception was at Himalaya where the food was pretty ordinary(except the fresh fruit provided), but it was at least safe. You have to take responsibility for your own safe water; we used two Steripens for the group. All this kept us healthy and walking.
This was a tea house trek, and the higher you go the more primitive the accommodation. Binod knew of and chose lodges which were the best available. We mostly had attached private bathrooms and could mostly get a hot shower, except in the Sanctuary itself. Actually the accommodation at the base camps was very substantial. We were on a late winter trek, I suspect the shower situation would be better in the warmer months. By and large we had fantastic weather with mostly clear, fine days, and barring January I think winter is the best time. Fewer fellow trekkers!
After our trek we drove in a minibus to Sapana Village Lodge near the Chitwan National Park, a really excellent place to stay. Binod’s drivers were first class, which is really important as Nepal’s roads and traffic are truly appalling. Next Binod provided a 4wd to take us to Gorkha where we visited the royal palace of King Prithvi Narayan Shah. A few hours at the wretched Gorkha Bisauni Hotel were enough and we cut our visit short by a day. At short notice Binod came to our rescue and despatched a Jeep from Kathmandu to pick us up.
Meanwhile the younger group had gone on ahead by car to catch an earlier flight home and were caught in a four and a half hour Kathmandu traffic gridlock and were in danger of missing their plane. Again Binod came to the rescue and organized for them to meet a second car and driver beyond the jam, and personally escorted them to the airport in time. All our airport transfers were excellent and it was great fun to be met on first arrival at the airport with garlands of marigold. We flew Buddha Air to Pokhara, they seem to be the safest. By the way, all costs and logistics were organized by Hike Nepal, except for a few meals. We didn’t pay anything extra for the rescues, Binod is ready for these contingencies.
Our four porters were well looked after and very happy to be working with us. We noticed on the trek that porters from the big companies were typically carrying at least twice the loads of ours. Ours were mainly from the local area and well known to Binod. I can also say that they were completely trustworthy and reliable and looked after us well. We also had a guide porter. Throughout the trek either our guide or the guide-porter, Saroz, were at the rear of the group to ensure everyone’s safety, and they were also available to carry our day-packs for us on the few occasions where this was needed. (This is normal and expected on a trek.) Binod and Saroz were in touch by walkies-talkie throughout the trek, as well as by mobile phone. I was surprised by the dramatic improvement in telecommunications since 2005, Nepal Telecom seemed to work the whole way, but N-Cell does not go all the way up the Modi Khola valley. Binod used his ipad to tweak our itinerary and bookings throughout the trip. Most of the lodges had free wifi, though the quality varied.
Our trip was highly successful and enjoyable, mainly due to the incredible organization of Hike Nepal. But of course we also did a lot of planning and organization ourselves, especially in the area of gear and medical supplies. (Binod also carried an emergency medical kit.) So thank you Binod, and perhaps most especially for all those conversations along the way about life, the universe and everything.
Rob Wilton
Australia